Although I’ve been back in SF for a couple weeks now, I can’t stop thinking about the highlights of my trip. Tokyo is a city that constantly inspires — around every corner is a different shop to be discovered, someone to meet, another neighborhood to explore. Unlike any other city I’ve traveled in, Tokyo has a certain aura around it — call it synchronicity, or fate, or what have you. I always end up falling into things (art shows, openings, mail art shenanigans) in a way that never seems to happen anywhere else.
So when I first read about the store SCOS (short for “small circle of stationery”) in Tokyo’s Hongo neighborhood, I knew I’d visit one day, although it took me one or two trips to actually make it to the store. Down a long road, past a McDonald’s and a police station, and then turn left (got lost the first time I tried to find it…). Half a block down a tiny side street, a bright yellow bucket cheerfully props up a chalkboard sign sporting a drawing of an envelope. You must be in the right place.
As you walk through the sliding glass door, you cannot help but be charmed and overwhelmed to the point of swoony-ness. Turn, close the door behind you (don’t want that air conditioning to escape!), and you are now sealed inside a forest of stationery delights. There is a riot of color which cannot be tamed. Paper goodies are jam-packed on shelves, hidden away underneath boxes, placed on every available horizontal surface.
SCOS has a great variety of items, mostly of the European (German) variety. This gent is a fave:
This summer, I’ve been on a search for Italian airmail envelopes – sort of hard-to-find, as it turns out. An Italy-bound friend went hunting for me, but didn’t have any luck. However, SCOS pulled through!
Of course I couldn’t leave empty handed. Between the airmail envelopes and then some disposable fountain pens and don’t forget that decorative Czech tape…well, I just had to have it all. Store manager Eiji Teramura wrapped up my purchases in a funny German bag used for carrying bread, topping the whole thing off with a vintage ticket that had the SCOS logo (a rabbit in a vest!) on it. Exclaiming over the general adorable-ness of it all, I asked if it would be alright to take some photos. Eiji graciously agreed.
This is the sort of store that “people like us” want to linger in forever; you wish that you could roll out a little cot at the end of the work day and sleep surrounded by rolls of packing tape and pencil cases. Since the staff might be weirded out by that, I’ll have to be satisfied with yearly trips to visit. I’m thinking about it like this: it will be like visiting a beloved relative who lives far, far away — a treat that is savored and looked forward to, with lots of letters and postcards exchanged in between visits.
That’s all of my stories for today; I have a few more Tokyo things/stores to tell you about; then we’ll return to our regularly scheduled programming — I promise!
–JH
PS: many many MANY thanks to those of you who have been writing/emailing in and telling me that you’re enjoying the RLD blog! It’s great to know that folks are following along and equally passionate about all things postal. YAY for all of you!







So, did the skeleton writing pin come home with you? I am still so happy that you had such a great trip!
Mom
I love stationary stores in Japan. I heard a lots of stories, foreigners like to bring back stationary as souvenir. Especially, I heard when I travel to 3rd world country, I should bring some pens and notebook, kids their really like it.
Did you know that at the new mall in San Francisco, (Westfield) 4th floor (I think where the chairs are in the middle patio) there is a Japanese stationary store called MaiDo. I think this is the same branch that they have at Japantown across from Kinokuniya. But this is closer if you are from school.
Here is more info I found in yelp.
http://www.yelp.com/biz/maido-stationery-and-gifts-san-francisco
My boyfriend told me about it. I went and made me feel at home. Off course they are more expensive than buying things in Japan, but you might love the pens and cards there! I got the skelton stapler that has a function to take off needle. ホッチキス
MaiDo まいど you might know welcome in Osaka dialect. Maido literary means “every time”, so it means in business greeting, “welcome back!” That means the store is from Osaka. I did not talk with them in Japanese, but I heard they talked in Osaka language. ; )
Ahaaaa, one of my next mission is to find this shop, you really sold it!! big time. Will tell you.
Oh, and thanks so much for the card, love it!!
Miss M. –
YAY! I’m glad the postcard arrived. Your lovely mail with the “Jimbo-cho/Kanda papers” was just lovely…
–JH
I got your email, but the system board fried in my computer on Sunday last. I will be doing some art for you that should show up some time next week – if all goes well.
Mr. D. –
Uh oh — a fried system board is never good news! My condolences. I’m working on something for you as well! Could I request your mailing address?
You can email me at the usual email addy: redletterdayzine@gmail.com. I’m looking forward to exchanging post with you!
–JH
PS: I saw the photo of your studio space on Seth’s “Altered Page”; what a great space to work in!
I found it yesterday. For some reason, I don’t know why, I expected a “stationery Café”, so I was a bit surprised when I arrived in front of the shop. I was looking for some cool stickers to write addresses on but not much luck with that. Instead I got a german ticket numbering booklet, and that made me happy enough
Miss M. —
That’s the beauty of SCOS: I may have one thing in mind, but I come away from the store carrying 5 other items that I never realized I HAD to have! I’m hoping that you met Teramura-san; such a wonderful person, and he always seems to have a little “something extra” to show me when I stop by…
–JH
I just travelled to Europe, and on my list was to find a stationary store in every country! I DID! Went to one in France, found some lovely little stickers…found one in Germany, got some fab notebooks, and a schneider pen that I wish I had bought 10 of and some fine writing paper…and in London a lovely LAMY pen, and Switzerland some white out pens! Now I have to “allow” myself to use them. Ha ha!
What a great treasure hunt to set out for one’s self! The fact that you found a stationery store in every country in a wonderful accomplishment!
As for using the items that you purchased…I think it’s your duty to write fabulous letters on that gorgeous German stationery using those Lamy pens, and then send them to appreciative pen-pals! Ready…GO!
–JH
Yes!
SCOS means “a small circle of stationery’s”.
I became very happy to read your nice blog.
Thank you so much !
I’m very looking forward to your next coming to SCOS.
寺村ーさん --
本当にありがとうございます!うれしいね。今度、東京へ行く、SCOSを訪ねます!
今週、パッケージを出します。このパッケージは小さいのおみやげです。:-)
–JH