one museum, two mailboxes, and a handful of fantastic pens…(tokyo edition, part 03)

this, dear readers, is heaven…

I’ll confess: I have a weakness. Some folks lose their head over Italian handbags or beautiful shoes. But for me, it’s a well-turned pen. One that writes cleanly, smoothly across the cream colored expanse of a new sheet of Crane’s Regent Blue Triple Hairline.  Disposable fountain pens? Sure – I’ll try anything once, even though I’m a confirmed Parker 51 girl. How about a .001 midnight blue roller ball? No hesitation. Each and every office supply store in Tokyo has something to offer me.

wandering the streets, looking for inspiration…

Every time I visit Tokyo, I feel like Dorothy hitting the Emerald City — Japan is a country that celebrates its postal culture, and that translates into Technicolor for a girl like me. Everywhere I looked, there seemed to be another homage to that “T” shaped logo, another item sporting a smiling postal logo or a contest to mail the most packages. Incredible.

at Tokyo Station…

That’s why a trip to the Tokyo Communications Museum (“Tei Park”) is always so much fun. Located in Tokyo’s Otemachi neighborhood, Tei Park is a hands-on, interactive museum focusing on different aspects of daily communication: television, telephones, and (of course!) the postal system. What’s not to love?

friends from around the world…

My favorite part? The fact that they always have some sort of decorated envelope or mail art show happening (no joke). And then there’s the fact that you can dress up in postal worker uniforms and snap your photo via webcam, print it out, and mail it at the counter! (seriously.) You can “ride” postal motorcycles while racing through the streets of Tokyo (a simulation) and look through the awe-inspiring library of postage stamps. Guess what? You haven’t even hit the gift shop downstairs!

do you think anyone would notice if…

I always find myself at Tei Park on a weekday; it’s one of the benefits of being on vacation, and the museum is always empty. (This makes it easier to snap illicit photos…) I have no doubt that Tei Park is full on the weekends with school kids and stamp collectors; however, I’m always thankful to have the place to myself when I visit.

BFFs…

(a word to the wise: when you visit the museum, you’ll purchase your entry ticket at a vending machine outside and hand it to the lovely staff at the front desk, as you enter the building.)

Back to the trip: alas, my time in Tokyo was coming to an end; just a day or two left. I found myself at a Daiso in Harajuku, and guess what?! More postal love to be had…

rabbits? mailboxes? together in one package?!

For me, the end of any vacation trip is always filled with two conflicting feelings: an infinite sadness that I’ll be leaving the place where so many new adventures have taken place and the I can hardly wait feeling of sleeping in my own bed.

it’s true: narita has a postal counter on the fourth floor…

Tokyo never lets me down, ever; there’s always something to be discovered, a new place to fall in love with, a way to remind myself that this is a city unlike any other place on earth. It is a vast metropolis that inspires, frustrates, delights, and humbles. True: it’s not for everyone. But with your eyes and heart wide open to endless possibilities, Tokyo is the one city on earth that can show you what the future has in store.

–JH

PS: for those who’d like to know more about the history of the Japan Post logo, The Japan Times published a story in yesterday’s paper — read and enjoy!

stationery! old books! glassine envelopes! (tokyo edition, part 02)…

what more do you need, really? (Basara Books, Kichijyoji)

After the first (fast) forty eight hours in Tokyo, my jet lag had receded to something resembling an old friend, a gentle reminder at odd times throughout the day. Why was I craving a cup of coffee at midnight? Or dinner at six a.m.? Blame it on the jet lag. But I was quickly getting into a daily routine, which helps even out the ups-and-downs.

at Basara, I found a couple of items used, that I’d thought about buying at Kinokuniya the day before — SCORE!

On Friday, it seemed like a good idea to head out to the suburb of Mitaka, a 30 minute train ride from Shinjuku Station. Some of you may be familiar with Mitaka: the Studio Ghibli Museum is located in this neighborhood. Having visited the Ghibli Museum on a previous trip (it’s amazing), this time I was on the prowl for stationery.

this is where my downfall started…

After reading about Yamada Stationery in one of those swoon-inducing Japanese office supply mags, I knew I had to see it for myself. And I wasn’t disappointed. It was every bit as delightful as I had hoped:

kokeshi-themed stationery and accessories…

yep — it’s everything you want it to be…

Entering through a small café, I found myself standing in the middle of the store, surrounded by wooden tables and shelves. Vintage glassine envelopes, unusual washi tapes, and sheets of airmail stickers were displayed in old racks and printer’s trays. Poking around in each tray and drawer yielded another discovery. I thought I’d faint, I was so happy.

like little kittens, I wanted to take each item home in my suitcase…

It was hard, prying myself away from such a heavenly spot. But I had my eye on another store, just a fast train stop away: 36 Sublo.

I walked right on by, the first time…

Unfortunately, the shop staff wouldn’t allow a photo of the inside of their space. But you’ll just have to trust me when I say that it was another jewel-sized store, filled with a wonderous assortment of items I’d never seen before: German drafting supplies, letterpress greeting cards (there’s a renaissance of letterpress happening in Japan right now), glass jars filled with things like paper clips or erasers.

(photo via the 36 Sublo website)

(photo via the 36 Sublo website)

More than three people in the space? Things get pretty crowded. I shopped a little bit more (they had a few things that Yamada had, for less money), then made my purchases. Walking back to the train station, it was time to head to Jinbōchō – Tokyo’s famous “used book town”.

not every bookstore in Jinbōchō looks like this old-timer…

So. There’s something to keep in mind here, when you visit this particular neighborhood: well over a hundred used and new bookstores are at your disposal. That may not seem particularly daunting, but I’m here to tell you: that’s a lot of books. Most stores deal in primarily Japanese language books (with a few foreign language stores thrown into the mix). Visiting Jinbōchō is easily an all-day undertaking, should you want to wander and discover.

classic volumes, lovingly printed and bound…

I did find a few treasures (including a “free box” of books on the sidewalk) here and there. Mainly, the fun was in roaming the side streets and bookstalls, browsing. I was reminded that used bookstores share similarities, no matter where one is in the world: the smell of old paper, a gentle whisper of turning pages, the weight and feel  of a volume as you remove it from the shelf.

price tags (cost per set)…

Time passed quickly in this neighborhood where, inside each bookstore, it feels as if time is standing still. My stomach (or was it the jet lag?) was telling me that it was time to eat, rest up a little bit for the evening to come.

I made my way back to Shinjuku, already planning tomorrow’s rambles.

–JH

thrills! excitement! office supplies! (tokyo edition)

this is about the size and space of my studio in SF…

Hello RLD readers!

I’ve returned from my stationery safari in the far-away wilds of Tokyo, and am happy to report that pen, paper, and ink are alive and well. On this particular trip, I was able to spend time at some of my favorite usual haunts, (Seikaido, Yuzawaya, Tokyu Hands) as well as visit some new hideouts (Yamada Stationery, 36 Sublo).

…although the seats aren’t as comfortable.

Let’s face it: flying economy class isn’t as glamorous as flying first class. However, on this flight, I managed to have a middle seat all to myself, so I could spread out and work on projects for the entirety of the 11 hour flight – that felt pretty first class!

ahh, shinjuku…

Once you get through the hustle and bustle of Narita customs and all, it takes awhile to get into Tokyo proper (about an hour and a half.) By the time I made it to Shinjuku, the evening lights of the neighborhood were going strong. Under the main train tracks, Yakitori and ramen stalls were in full swing; everything smelled delicious and wonderful and exactly as I remembered it.

so beautiful! so round!

But a girl’s gotta stay awake those first few hours in town, no matter how badly she wants to go to sleep! (this is the best way, trust me…) So it was off to a handful of within-walking-distance train stations, to look for “eki stamps” (駅のスタンプ) – large sized rubber stamps which reside at Tokyo Metro stations.

don’t forget! bring your own ink pad…

Like a scavenger hunt for people like us, these rubber stamps are often hidden out of the way near a ticket booth or the exit gates. You can stamp in specially designed Tokyo Metro collector books or (if you’re like me) you bring along sheets of paper which later become postcards which you send to your friends! Here’s a tip: I always have an ink pad with me, because the “public” ink pads are usually pretty dried up.

i couldn’t resist the rabbit…

More walking, picking up a snack from the convenience store and heading back to the hotel. I was noticing a lot more sticker slapping this trip: all types and kinds of stickers by global graffiti artists appeared on the sides of vending machines, tunneled walkways, posts and poles.

this looks like a dream-state board game, in which all the rules are made up as one goes along…

And as always: beautifully arranged items, on display in alcoves and alleys. These are labels from saké bottles…

I made it back to the hotel and immediately fell asleep, dreaming of all the bento lunches and ink pens I was sure to discover during the next few days.

OMG! OMG! OMG!

(of course! I passed a cat café the next morning – you too can have a pet for a few hours…)

Upcoming: strolling through Jinbocho (used book town), mail art at Tokyo’s postal museum, and riffling through vintage envelopes at 36 Sublo – stay tuned!

–JH

to read more about Japanese rubber stamp/hanko culture, take a look at Densha de Japan‘s write up…

a birth(day) or in no uncertain terms, a !week! of birthday…

a delicious stack of mail, outgoing…

I love using those “Celebrate!” postage stamps. I mean, there are so many DIFFERENT things to celebrate at this time of year that it’s hard to choose just one. For example, RLD readers could take a moment to revel in the beauty of this rubber stamp carousel:

(given to me by Mom ‘n Dad, who always find the PERFECT presents; it was used at a post office counter in upstate NY…)

Or perhaps bask in the satisfaction of a day well spent at the studio! Completing this group of “outgoing” postcards and such, it felt great to see them gathered together, waiting to be placed in a blue box…

satisfaction guaranteed!

Rubber stamp kits like the one below are always cause for merriment. Sometimes I like to relax by hand-setting rubber stamp type:

I think the old school, 1950′s look of the lettering (when printed) is a good fit for a lot of the work that I put together…

my flux-y alter ego…

Needless to say, I could paint the town red every single hour of the day — eating cake, drinking champagne, and pressing rubber stamps to paper. For now, I’ll just say a hearty “thank you!” to everyone who sent a little something my way for this past week’s birthday. The postal concoctions which grace my PO box are always cause for celebration!

–JH

PS: next week’s write up will come to RLD readers via Tokyo — what Aries person in their right mind would miss a chance to whoop it up in an exotic, stationery filled locale? Not I!!!

coming soon to a classroom near you!

if your books were having a party, this is what it’d look like…

I’ve had a full plate lately: putting together a handful of fun classes, working on a new artist book (more info in the extremely near future!)  and getting accepted into the upcoming publication “500 Handmade Books: Volume 2” by Lark Books. I had a hunch that 2013 would be a whirlwind of activity, but nothing quite like this!

this is only the beginning…

At the SF Center for the Book this weekend, I taught my “Creative Carousel Books” class. Carousel books (also known as “star books”) are one of my favorite book structures to teach – all the excitement of pop ups, with the “wow!” factor of a tunnel book. And lucky me! I’ll be teaching this class at two different venues in the next couple of months: The Ink Pad in NYC (beginning of June) and the Focus on Book Arts Conference in Oregon (end of June). For more info, be sure to take a look at the RLD “Classes and Sightings” page.

plotting, planning, designing (student megan)…

Yesterday’s students at SFCB were wonderful: enthusiastic, eager to experiment and try out new ideas. First step of our books? Creating the blank pages, a.k.a the textblock. From there we moved forward into designing page layouts and positioning each visual element.

selecting the best order of photos (student linda)…

a recurring theme in my life (RLD’s project)…

look at all those textures! (student joyce)…

And once that was achieved, we stitched everything together!

a tidy work station, ready to go!

Covers came together easily, with ribbon ties and a choice of decorative paper. After that, we were in the homestretch of the project: attach the textblock to covers, apply endsheets and put the whole thing under weight.

make no mistake: those are window weights…

Everyone’s project came together beautifully and it’s always interesting to see how each person’s project is a direct reflection of their personality. That’s one of the amazing things about artists’ books: no two will ever look the same. The character of the person making the book speaks through the work, no matter what.

completed books, top to bottom: megan, RLD, linda, joyce

Each time I teach a workshop, students show me something new, in addition to the things I show to them. I’ve learned about low-tech tools, DIY techniques and troubleshooting from a variety of students met in various classrooms in various cities. I believe that this is the true strength of learning: empowering your peers through knowledge, inspiring by showing. Each lesson learned accumulates over time, to create a fuller, richer way of creating.

–JH

and we’re OFF! (in a matter of speaking…)

actually, what’s NOT to love?…

February is in its last few days, believe it or not. Valentine’s Day has come and gone; my red ink pad and heart shaped rubber stamps got a workout this month, to be sure! For those of you in the know, March is National Craft month; I’m already putting together a few special items for RLD readers…y’know: to celebrate and all!

we all know that nature abhors a vacuum, whether in the studio or…

I’ve been working on some new bits-n-bobs at the studio, putting together books and working on new stamp sheets. In the next couple weeks I’ll be posting those items for sale in the RLD store – if you’re a regular reader of the blog, you’ll be among the first to know when the new goodies hit the street!

would you be interested in learning how to make this oh-so-secret book?

I also have a handful of teaching gigs coming up, which is super exciting. East bay SHOUT OUT:  I’ll be over in Oakland at a bookbinding/art space called BiblioForge, run by my long-time friend (and bookbinder/calligrapher extraordinaire) Nick Yeager. In his usual “flash-and-flair” way, Nick interviewed me for the BiblioForge blog last week. You can read the fruits of his labor here.

And then taking it home and filling it up with wonder?

“Structures with Style: Secret Belgian Binding” will take place on Saturday, March 9^th. By the end of the day, students will have 1-2 finished books and a firm grasp on what it takes to sew together this “secret” book structure. I anticipate that much fun will be had by all involved (and possibly cupcakes. But that’s just a rumor…)

Crazy! Creepy! Caterpillar Stitch!

The second BiblioForge class will be on March 23^rd – “Creative Caterpillar Bindings”. If you’ve seen this particular style of binding and wondered how someone could possibly put it together, then this is the class for you! In addition to making 1-2 books in class, students will learn about hardcover and softcover attachments for this book structure.

As you can see, things are heating up over here at the RLD studio, and spring hasn’t even started springing yet! If you’re interested in knowing more about my teaching schedule for April – June, be sure to take a look at the “Classes and Sightings” page of the RLD blog.

Hoping that our paths will cross, either in the classroom or the mailbox –

–JH

The BiblioForge blog can be found here.

To find out more class info and sign up, visit the BiblioForge FaceBook page. 

the RLD store is (once again) open for business!

this is the desk of a hardworking girl!

Great news for RLD readers: I’ve done a thorough dusting of the Red Letter Day store and taken the “gone fishing” sign off the front door – just in time for valentine’s day! Perhaps you’d like a special something-or-other for a postally-inclined person in your life; maybe you’d like to pick up a little goodie for yourself – I have the perfect solution!

it’s a little over a week away!

Treats galore await you at the RLD store: valentine’s day items, artistamp sheets, and zines are just a few of the things you’ll find. Each item is hand made by Jennie at the Red Letter Day studio in San Francisco. Quantities are limited, so be sure to make your purchases early in order to get the best selection.

yesterday was “super-correspondence sunday”!

Clicking right here (or on the “RLD store” link in the sidebar) will whisk you away to a papery postal paradise! Questions about specific items that you see for sale? Just send me an email at: redletterdayzine@gmail.com

In all things postal, I remain –

–JH